Book review: Land of the Seven Rivers, A Brief History of India's Geography

Land of the Seven Rivers: A Brief History of India's Geography by Sanjeev Sanyal

My rating: 4 of 5 stars


A perfect book for a person who doesn't have much liking (and knowledge) of Indian History and Geography. The book spans across much of India's history and geography of many centuries in more or less 300 pages with author choosing to dwell on some time frame with others being just named (can't be expected more in a 300 page book).

However, what the book does is provide a very good reference guide and also piques interest of ignorant creature (aka me) on the rich subject India's diverse history and geography.Although the name of book is Land of Seven Rivers, A Brief History of India's Geography, the book covers more of history than geography but I am not complaining.

To me it has given a resolve to re-pick up the John Keay's book India - A History (which i left after first few pages) and read it through.

For serious students of India's History/ Geography, they may pass on this book. However, this book is strongly recommended to students/ professionals/ residents of Delhi as it mentions many places in and around Delhi of much historical interest which can be visited on weekends and related to through this book.



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Indore Trip (Indore/ Mandu/ Maheshwar/ Omkareshwar)

27th july' 2014 - reached indore, picked up at station and checked-in at hotel lemon tree. Had lunch there  with Aasya having roti basket on high chair. Then started for Indore darshan. Visited Lal bagh palace where sadly photography was not allowed inside. A very beautiful palace made by Europeans with gold  patterned leaves and fruits, frescoes, cherubs, painting on ceilings etc. Wish they maintain it better and market it well so that more tourists are attracted. Plus they should allow photography and earn more out of it so that palace get more funds to maintain itself.

After Lal Bagh we proceeded to see Rajwada in the main market. Visited Holkar museum inside that which has some old proclamations issued by Britishers as well as government to read and think about the old living style.

Then we visited the Shiv temple just behind Rajwada and started off to wander the streets of sarafa bazaar, bohra bazaar, kapda market etc having halwa and moong ki pakori on the way to reach Sheesh mahal. Since it was already closed we went back to room to relax and get fresh.

For dinner we decided to visit Sayaji Hotel as it has best restaurants in town. Decided to dine at their roof top restaurant i.e. Mediterra. They have a cover charge of 800 per pax. However, a couple can easily have three course meal in that price as their portions are good and price not very high (around 400 for main course and 200 for soups/ starters). They also give bread basket on- house with dips. We ordered Polenta with exotic veg in main course which was good. However, desert was a big let down. Firstly we ordered Ganache which was sweet rather than dark chocolate ( as promised). We returned it and asked for choco lava cake to which they brought dominoes pizzas choco lava cake and terribly disappointed us.

28th july - After getting fresh, had one of the best buffet bfast at Lemon tree.

Then headed for Mandu to see the historical ruins. Visited Royal enclave wherein Jahaaz mahal was most beautiful monument ( surrounded by Munj kund, Kapoor talab, Kamal kund and Suraj kund). Apart from Jahaz mahal, there was Hindola Mahal, Hamam, Champa ki Bawdi etc.

After that we visited Asharfi mahal and Khilji tomb and then proceeded to Hotel Jahaz Mahal (as Hotel Malwa resort was full). We had dinner at Shivani restaurant.

29th july

Had breakfast at hotel itself and then proceeded to visit Rupmati pavilion, Reva kund and Baz bahadur mahal. Thereafter visited Jami Mazjid (which was earlier Jain temple as per our guide) and Hoshangshah's tomb (which was a Shiv temple plus it doesn't house the actual tomb).

After completing the 3 main parts of Mandu we proceeded to Maheshwar at the Banks of Narmada which is famous for its Maheshwari sarees. Ahilyabai Rajwada and ghats are very serene. We did a boat ride at Narmada overlooking the beautiful ghats.

There is a heritage resort which can't even be entered without booking and charges some obscene 7k per person per night.

We had lunch at nondescript Gurukripa restaurant run by two Punjabi brothers serving homelike food with good hospitality.

Maheshwar was much serene and could have stayed more. Anyways, after that we proceeded for Omkareshwar and checked-in at MPSRTC hotel. Visited the Jyotirling at night itself and then retired for night having dinner at Hotel itself.

30th July

I woke up at 6am, got ready, strolled down the ghats soaking the atmosphere. Then visited Mamleshwar temple and walked down the laxman jhoola overlooking the layered rocks with Narmada river flowing beneath.

Then checked out the special pass system (its Rs.100 per person) and tickets should directly be taken from counter instead of going through Pandits. With this you get the closest darshan of Shivling (niraakar i.e. no shape) and Parvatiji.

Post that went back to Hotel to wake up wife/ kid which were awake most of night. Then had bfast, checked out and visited both Mamleshwar and Omkareshwar again. Post that had a Parikrama of Omkareshwar island in the boat ride which was 11kms long (took 1.5 hrs) and was very beautiful.

Then we rushed from Omkareshwar to Ujjain to visit Mahakal temple and had to quickly visit as had a train to catch. Visited again through special pass (Rs.150 per person) because of paucity of time but it was from far off only and not close (may be because of Shravan month). Had snacks and then boarded train back to Mumbai.